Wild through my lens

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Backwaters of Tungabhadra Dam

Hampi, Karnataka, India — June 2025 — 57 photographs

The backwaters of the Tungabhadra dam turn into "the greatest maternity ward." Those were the exact words of Mr. Pompayya Malemath, and after spending a weekend there with him, I can say they are no exaggeration.

It all began with a series of stunning Little Tern photographs I kept seeing on social media. With a weekend trip planned near Hampi, I decided to call Mr. Pompayya, and he graciously invited me to his farmhouse for a day of birding together.

Nothing quite prepared me for the scenery at the backwaters. Against a backdrop of blue water and carpets of green grass, the shoreline was alive with white wings — Little Terns, Small Pratincoles, and Black-winged Stilts squabbling over territory in a constant, noisy theatre.

We settled down to watch the Little Terns at their nests, and what unfolded was a masterclass in parental devotion. The summer heat here is sweltering — hot enough, quite literally, to cook an unattended egg — and the terns took turns shielding their clutches, one parent standing guard over the eggs while the other flew off to cool down or feed. Nearby, tiny Small Pratincole chicks wandered the water's edge, little puffs of down almost invisible against the sand.

The surprises kept coming. We were treated to Painted Sandgrouse, the males flaunting their coveted "necklace" — that elegant black-and-white collar that makes them such a prized sighting. Around the farmhouse itself, the birding was just as rewarding: Blue-tailed Bee-eaters ferrying food to their nest burrows, Baya Weavers busy at their hanging nests, and a magnificent Rock Eagle-Owl keeping watch over it all.

What I will cherish just as much as the birds is the warmth of Pompayya's home — the generous hospitality and the delicious food that rounded off each day perfectly.

This was, without a doubt, one of my best trips so far.

Travel notes

Just before rainy season, during Apri, May or June..

Subjects: backwaters, scenary, birds, breeding